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Lauryn Chun, the founder of Mother-in-Law?s Kimchi, prepares kimchi with her mother, left, at their home in Orange, Calif. on Aug. 16, 2022. The memories of her grandmother?s kimjangs in Seoul have stayed with Chun through careers in restaurants in California and grape harvesting in Italy, where she noticed the similarities between kimchi and wine. (Tanveer Badal/The New York Times/Fotoarena)
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