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The butter service at Quality Bistro in New York, April 28, 2024. A server carts over a bucket with a half-foot mound of butter emerging from it. With a wooden spatula, they scoop out a baseball-size blob of butter, smear it onto a marble plate and top it with pimente dÕespelette, minced shallots and salt. (Brittainy Newman/The New York Times/Fotoarena)
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