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One of the canals through which fleur de sel crystals flow into the salt marshes of the Camargue from the Mediterranean Sea, in Aigues-Mortes, in southern France, Aug. 11, 2023. Figuring out whether to use flaky, fine or any of the other salts in between can be confusing, but a little history and advice helps. (France Keyser/The New York Times/Fotoarena)
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