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The upstairs dining room at Seven ...
Data da imagem: 24/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019015305
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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The upstairs dining room at Seven Reasons in Washington, Oct. 24, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 24/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019015305

The upstairs dining room at Seven Reasons in Washington, Oct. 24, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

The upstairs dining room at Seven Reasons in Washington, Oct. 24, 2019. The plate presentations at Seven Reasons evoke memories of the sauce-striped nuevo-Latino cooking of the late 1990s and early 2000s. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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Red goat curry at Thip Khao, a Laotian ...
Data da imagem: 24/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019015204
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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Red goat curry at Thip Khao, a Laotian restaurant in the Mount Pleasant neighborhood of Washington, Oct. 25, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 24/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019015204

Red goat curry at Thip Khao, a Laotian restaurant in the Mount Pleasant neighborhood of Washington, Oct. 25, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

Red goat curry at Thip Khao, a Laotian restaurant in the Mount Pleasant neighborhood of Washington, Oct. 25, 2019. Seng Luangrath spurred a local renaissance for the herbal, funky, often spicy cooking of her native Laos when she opened Thip Khao in 2014. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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The chef Victor Albisu prepares ...
Data da imagem: 23/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019015805
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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The chef Victor Albisu prepares charred cabbage with mole verde at Poca Madre in Washington’s Chinatown, Oct. 23, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 23/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019015805

The chef Victor Albisu prepares charred cabbage with mole verde at Poca Madre in Washington’s Chinatown, Oct. 23, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

The chef Victor Albisu prepares charred cabbage with mole verde at Poca Madre in Washington?s Chinatown, Oct. 23, 2019. Albisu makes deft use of citrus, chiles and even mole to draw out nuanced flavors in seafood, but don?t miss the luscious whole duck, cooked al pastor style. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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An array of dishes offered at Bad ...
Data da imagem: 21/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019014604
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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An array of dishes offered at Bad Saint, a tiny Filipino restaurant with a big reputation in Washington, Oct. 21, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 21/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019014604

An array of dishes offered at Bad Saint, a tiny Filipino restaurant with a big reputation in Washington, Oct. 21, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

An array of dishes offered at Bad Saint, a tiny Filipino restaurant with a big reputation in Washington, Oct. 21, 2019. The cooking is modestly presented, but often extravagantly delicious, with flavors that taste like fresh revelations: the notes of squid-ink musk in a sour-hot adobo, or the charred coconut that provides a vanilla rasp to goat braised with lemongrass. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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Steamed brioche topped with trout roe, ...
Data da imagem: 19/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019015004
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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Steamed brioche topped with trout roe, a one-bite signature at Komi, in Washington, Oct. 19, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 19/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019015004

Steamed brioche topped with trout roe, a one-bite signature at Komi, in Washington, Oct. 19, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

Steamed brioche topped with trout roe, a one-bite signature at Komi, in Washington, Oct. 19, 2019. Dinner in Komi?s narrow dining room often begins with one-bite steamed brioche topped with trout roe; a meal in August proceeded with yogurt-and-garlic scape plumped ravioli and a juicy-fleshed, shawarma-spiced amberjack collar. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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Fried sugar toads, a puffer fish found ...
Data da imagem: 19/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019015704
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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Fried sugar toads, a puffer fish found in the waters off the Mid-Atlantic coast, at Queen’s English in Washington, Oct. 19, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 19/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019015704

Fried sugar toads, a puffer fish found in the waters off the Mid-Atlantic coast, at Queen’s English in Washington, Oct. 19, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

Fried sugar toads, a puffer fish found in the waters off the Mid-Atlantic coast, at Queen?s English in Washington, Oct. 19, 2019. Queen?s English, which opened in Columbia Heights in April, follows in the recent local tradition of jewel-box restaurants (there are 40 seats) featuring Asian cuisine, in this case that of the New Territories region of Hong Kong, where Henji Cheung, the chef and owner, was born. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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Spicy lamb noodles with chile paste ...
Data da imagem: 17/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019020004
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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Spicy lamb noodles with chile paste and herbs at Maketto, where the dishes are a mashup of Taiwanese and Cambodian cuisine, in Washington, Oct. 17, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 17/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019020004

Spicy lamb noodles with chile paste and herbs at Maketto, where the dishes are a mashup of Taiwanese and Cambodian cuisine, in Washington, Oct. 17, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

Spicy lamb noodles with chile paste and herbs at Maketto, where the dishes are a mashup of Taiwanese and Cambodian cuisine, in Washington, Oct. 17, 2019. The cooking is dizzyingly aromatic: lamb noodles alive with fermented chile paste, grill-smoked duck hearts brined in nuoc cham, and sweet-hot fried chicken. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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The chef Yuan Tang plates foie gras ...
Data da imagem: 11/10/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019014804
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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The chef Yuan Tang plates foie gras with roasted beets at Rooster & Owl in Washington, Oct. 11, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 11/10/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019014804

The chef Yuan Tang plates foie gras with roasted beets at Rooster & Owl in Washington, Oct. 11, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

The chef Yuan Tang plates foie gras with roasted beets at Rooster & Owl in Washington, Oct. 11, 2019. The unassuming restaurant has a user-friendly four-course, $65 tasting menu that offers multiple choices and achieves lofty goals but defies thumbnail description. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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The upstairs dining room at Del Mar, ...
Data da imagem: 13/09/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019020204
Crédito: T.j. Kirkpatrick/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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The upstairs dining room at Del Mar, the sixth restaurant from the chef Fabio Trabocchi, in Washington, Sept. 13, 2019. (T.J. Kirkpatrick/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 13/09/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019020204

The upstairs dining room at Del Mar, the sixth restaurant from the chef Fabio Trabocchi, in Washington, Sept. 13, 2019. (T.J. Kirkpatrick/The New York Times)

Crédito: T.j. Kirkpatrick/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

The upstairs dining room at Del Mar, the sixth restaurant from the chef Fabio Trabocchi, in Washington, Sept. 13, 2019. The restaurant presents traditional cooking from the coast of Spain ? pairing Michelin-grade service with dishes that are either textbook classics (squid-ink stained paella, crab-stuffed piquillo peppers) or respectful modernizations (raw tuna with tomato jelly and sea beans). (T.J. Kirkpatrick/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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Jerk chicken served at Kith and Kin in ...
Data da imagem: 01/04/2019
Cod. da imagem: ny301019015504
Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

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Jerk chicken served at Kith and Kin in Washington, April 1, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Data da imagem: 01/04/2019

Cod. da imagem: ny301019015504

Jerk chicken served at Kith and Kin in Washington, April 1, 2019. (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times)

Crédito: Jennifer Chase/ The New York Times/ Fotoarena

Jerk chicken served at Kith and Kin in Washington, April 1, 2019. The menu at Kith and Kin blends dressed-up versions of homestyle dishes from the African diaspora (curried goat, jerk chicken) with abstracted studies of dishes with similar roots (uni escovitch, compressed cucumbers with gooseberry piri-piri). (Jennifer Chase/The New York Times/Fotoarena)

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